#WHEN TO APPLY MILKY SPORE PATCH#
To confirm that you have a grub infestation and determine how bad it is, you can cut a patch of sod about one foot by one foot with a knife and lift it, and count how many grubs you find. Both crows and moles like to feed on grubs. Other signs of a high grub population are crows gathering to peck and claw at your lawn, or lots of mole tunnels. One way to determine if you have grubs, is to try grabbing a handful of turf and if it comes up easily, as though it has hardly any roots holding it in place, then you likely have grubs. An extensive infestation might cover most of a lawn and look like drought stress. The damage they cause appears as patches of yellowed, thinning and wilted grass. Grubs live in the soil under grass and they eat roots.
#WHEN TO APPLY MILKY SPORE SERIES#
If you follow the recommendations that we provided in previous tips in this series including mowing at 3 1/2", not over-fertilizing with quick release nitrogen, choosing a low maintenance blend of grass seed, and keeping the pH balance of your soil in the 6.0 to 6.5 range, you will have hardy turf with an extensive root system that can tolerate moderate feeding by insects. The best way to prevent damage from insect pests is to first establish healthy turf, with a deep root system. It may not be possible, and fortunately it is not necessary to prevent all grubs from finding a home in your turf. We'll discuss watering in more detail in an upcoming post.) The key to prevention therefore is to avoid overwatering, particularly in late spring and early summer when beetles are actively looking to lay their eggs. Keen insight is gained from understanding that grubs are the larvae of beetles, and that adult female beetles are attracted a lawn to lay their eggs if the lawn provides a moist environment. (Or if you prefer Sun Tzu's "The Art of War", the lesson is to know your enemy.) Grubs are probably the most common insect pest concern for Long Island lawns.
Good organic practices always start with knowledge of the ecosystem you are seeking to manage. The underlying cause is often related to turf management (for example improper mowing, watering, fertilization), or malnutrition of the soil and the plant. If you only treat the symptom and not the cause, the symptoms will recur. Rather than regarding weeds, insects, and diseases as problems that require an arsenal of chemical poisons to control, they instead should be seen as indicators of an underlying unhealthy condition in the plant or soil. Remember with organic lawn care, the focus is always on building healthy lawn ecosystems and problem prevention.
If you have a weed or pest breakout in your organic lawn, don't panic and reach for chemical pesticides (including insecticides, weed killers, and fungicides) as they will kill beneficial organisms in the soil and undo previous organic care benefits.
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